There is a satisfying appeal to being an expert in things that we might normally entrust to professionals. From bartending to being a home barista, handling your own engine repairs, or a little light plumbing; there’s something gratifying about the freedom of DIY. There are plenty of us, though, who can mix a mean Manhattan or change a faucet, but who grow faint at the idea of shaving with a straight razor.

Trust us on this one: Men have been doing it for thousands of years. Men have also grown beards for thousands of years, so maybe there has always been a little healthy fear of a sharp blade. The key, besides properly prepping your face and beard for the assault, is to have an exceedingly sharp, quality razor.

We caught up with The Art of Shaving’s Master Barber Samuel Segev to hone our sharpening technique and understand exactly how to sharpen a straight razor. There’s a lot involved, but if you’re willing to commit to straight razor shaving, then you’re probably also ready to perfect your technique and acquire some pro-level accouterments.

“A dull straight razor will pull and tug at the hair and skin,” Segev points out. “Because of this many people tend to apply too much pressure while shaving, and nick themselves.” It’s important to keep your razor as sharp as possible for every use, allowing the blade to do the job without applying a lot of muscle. Like having the proper espresso machine or a solid pair of needle-nose pliers, you’re going to need the right tools for the job, including starting with a quality straight razor. That said, we recommend using The Art of Shaving Blade Straight Razor as its hollow ground blade delivers a smooth, clean shave that will help you achieve a freshly groomed look.

“It is recommended to strop your razor with sharpening strop paste prior to each shave. However, this does not replace honing a straight razor. When your razor begins to pull at the hair and not cut easily that’s when you’ll need to hone your razor.”

That was a lot of vocabulary. Let’s define some terms. 

What’s a strop? A strop (the noun) is a wide leather strap: one side is leather; the other, fabric, with a hook of some sort at each end. To strop (the verb) means to use the strop to sharpen a blade, like this: 

The movement actually restructures the blade’s cutting edge, making it sharp for its next use. Think of it as a kinder, gentler version of sharpening your kitchen knives on a stone or grinder. Use the fabric side to wipe away any excess metal bits, soap, etc., that remains on the blade. Be sure not to lift the blade into the air and come back down to the strap, as you are much more likely to cut or nick the strop. To ensure your technique is safe and barber chair-ready, check out this YouTube video for an in-depth guide to stropping. Now, you may want to consider adding The Art of Shaving Hanging Razor Strop to your grooming kit to maintain your razor’s sharpness for your next shaving session.

Strop paste includes small bits of grit — in this case, aluminum oxide and diamond particles — suspended in a paste for fine sharpening. 

When buying a new straight razor, it will most likely arrive factory-honed or sharpened. “At The Art of Shaving, we find clients may prefer a sharper edge,” says Segev. “A #4000 and #8000 grit honing stone will bring a normal razor back up to shave ready. An extremely blunt razor may need a coarser stone, to begin with, but generally, we recommend asking a professional to hone the razor. Make sure to strop with a leather strop and sharpening strop paste prior to every shave.”

If you’re looking for a sharper shave, or if you’ve been stropping your razor every day but feel like you need a slight touch-up, try this: 

Like any good tool, the best way to care for a straight razor is to store it properly between uses. Segev suggests storing your razor in a straight razor display box. The beautifully handcrafted Laguiole Deluxe Elm Burl Razor Storage Box comes with a protective pad for safeguarding your precious razor from damage, keeping it in pristine condition for future use. Overall, a storage box will go a long way to ensuring it continues to work effectively. But before storing the blade, make sure to carefully wipe it down with a microfiber cloth.

As a quick refresher, remember that shaving is never as simple as it seems. Segev reminds us that if you shave incorrectly, you could leave your face with irritation. His tips for the perfect shave include: 

While perfecting the technique of shaving with a straight razor may take some time, The Art of Shaving products make shaving an enjoyable process rather than a task to check off a to-do list. Segev recommends consulting The Art of Shaving’s blog for some handy tips and tricks to make the shave go easier and safer. 

The Essential Guide for MenThe Manual is simple — we show men how to live a life that is more engaged. As our name implies, we offer a suite of expert guides on a wide range of topics, including fashion, food, drink, travel, and grooming. We don’t boss you around; we’re simply here to bring authenticity and understanding to all that enriches our lives as men on a daily basis.